STUCK Scania Ignition Key

[R-C]

Scania 2 Series and 3 Series.

Ignition Key stuck in barrel (cannot remove after switching bus off)
Does anyone have any idea what the problem is and how to fix it or even better, convert the bus to BUTTON start.

[kelvin12]

No real idea, how about some WD40 down the hole.

Dirk

[ekoja]

I wonder if there is a button that has to be pushed before the key will release.
Having said that, if you have been driving the bus for any length of time, ignore my suggestion.

[mrobsessed]

Will the key turn in the barrel?

[38karter]

common with scania's we have had, need to turn power on then it will release

[Daz]

Are you hitting the stopper and failing to turn the key off before turning off the master? You can't get the key out with the master off. Has it always been a problem or have you never tried? There are 4 K112/3 chassis parked within 15m of me and two currently on the road.

Thats a kick-in-the-arse offence and one of my two pet hates- getting into a vehicle with the bloody AC left on and the key left in the ignition position with master off. Master on, beep fkn beepedy beep beep and air con flattening the batteries and tearing out belts...

Daz

[ekoja]

Whats the other pet hate?

[R-C]

No only happened recently.
Bus has power (batteries charged), stop solenoid button used to stop bus, Key wont turn to off position, hence release.
Seeing it cant be moved to the off position to reset the bus, hence cannot be started with key either and has to be started using the rear engine electric box starter switch!

[Mr Scania]

Does the vehicle have one or two alternators
Does the battery light on the dash work
Is the battery light staying on dull when the power is turned off.

The first thing that I would do is check the regulators in the alternator / s.
There are also two main relays in the fusebox that are probably not at fault but if you pull them out and push them in again it will allow the key to be turned off.

[Volgrunzel]

Thats a common fault with Scania's. Not being able to turn the key to the off position usually means there is a problem in the charge circuit. Its either a defective regulator (As Mr Scania has suggested) or the brushes inside the alternator have worn down to such an extent, they aren't making a good contact anymore (They are worn out). Sometimes cranking the engine using the switches at the back of the bus (in the engine bay) will change the position of the armature inside alternator, and that can make the circuit which could allow the key to be moved to the off position and the key released. Also, when the ignition is turned on and the warning lights appear (with the buzzer if it works), is the Battery Light on? If its not, thats also another tell tale sign its an alternator problem.

I hope that points you in the right direction.

Regards
Volgrunzel

[Daz]

The battery light came on bright when the key was turned on before starting but stayed on very dim the rest of the time whether the master was on or off. It came to a head when, as you said, the driver was unable to start the coach because the key wouldn't turn off.

Daz

[Daz]

Whats the other pet hate?

1) A/C left on with key turned on.
2) Tachograph cards. Didn't need them in QLD and it's simply a pain in the bum.

Also, recently the cold drinks system has been 'upgraded'. Before it was based on an "honesty box" of simply popping a total of about $1 in pure shrapnel into the jar whereas now it's a machine requiring a $1 coin only before you get the can. I'm spending a lot more on cold drinks since this new machine has been installed. I've tried washer on fishing line but not two 10c pieces glued together yet. I am determined to reduce my annual expediture on cold drinks without decreasing my consumption.

Daz

[R-C]

Battery light is a STRONG and not a dull or dim light when you turn on the master switch
I think its a single alternator bus
When master switch is turned off all power is off.
Which fuses should i remove and try. Or should i pull every single one out from the electrical box below the drivers window.
Also bus can only be started from the back and won't start with the iginition key

Does the vehicle have one or two alternators
Does the battery light on the dash work
Is the battery light staying on dull when the power is turned off.

The first thing that I would do is check the regulators in the alternator / s.
There are also two main relays in the fusebox that are probably not at fault but if you pull them out and push them in again it will allow the key to be turned off.

[Mr Bean]

I've tried washer on fishing line but not two 10c pieces glued together yet. I am determined to reduce my annual expediture on cold drinks without decreasing my consumption.

Daz

Probably the reason the machine was upgraded

[Mr Scania]

Just make sure the rear switch is UP when starting from the front. Is the key now turning off or is it still sticking on.
Your problem may now be the ignition switch. They are made of plastic and wear out in the centre. You need a small screwdriver set like a jewellers one to remove the switch. Also down on the side of the barrel there is an electric solenoid. This may play up not allowing the key to be turned off.

[mrobsessed]

Sounds Luke a mod waiting to happen there..... Remove solenoid.

[dropbear68]

Dont be sticking wd 40 into any ignition switch, it loosens the old brass and nickel that has worn of the key over the years and jams the switch, only use graphite powder, key switches clap out, sounds like the switch has collapsed

[Daz]

He is in a pickle if it is still stuck now, DB...

Daz

[Doc68]

Sounds Luke a mod waiting to happen there..... Remove solenoid.

sounds like a mod ?? Start off with a 4lb hammer If that won't fix it an 8lb (with a short handle) should solve the problem Make sure you have bought your start button first though (I know I didn't mention a 10lb hammer as they usually have a long handle & getting a good swing in a confined space & missing could result in more damage than a stuck key) All care shown but no responsabilty for outcome. Remember all work comes with a concrete warranty (warranty void once vehicle leaves concrete floor of workshop)


Seriously though I hope you have found the cause & wasn't too costly to repair

[Landship]

So has anyone figured this one out yet? Ive got the same issue, and its doing my head in!